A 21st century good life in Bristol: part 12 – eating freshwater fish

Sauntering into the local butcher, greengrocer/strange fish purveyor a few weeks ago, I saw two greeny-bronze fish lying on the slab. In shape they looked like a cross between a pike and a sea bass. I'm a huge fan of fish (as part of our wildlife as well as swimming in butter on my plate) so my low-grade brain finally clicked – they were zander, also known as the pike-perch.

I've never seen zander for sale before so, before I knew it, I'd bought one. It wasn't cheap but I felt it was worth the investment for future self-sufficient forays.

Now, aside from trout and salmon, most people shudder at the thought of freshwater fish but species such as carp, pike, tench and perch are eaten with relish on the continent. And in the Middle Ages, every monastery and noble house had a fish pond supplying it with vital protein all year round – no battered cod in ye olden days. Perhaps it's because we're an island and have become exceptionally good at emptying our seas that we prefer rather bland white fish to the denizens of our lakes and river.

These zander had originated in a lake near Exmoor, bycatch of a crayfish fishery. Zander are apparently not a native fish, having been introduced into the big slow rivers of eastern England (the Nene and Ouse) as well as the Norfolk Broads in the 20th century. There's a good summary of zander rivers here. British Waterways however regards them as pests because of their predatory nature – not everyone agrees these days.  However, if a pest is tasty – like the signal crayfish – there seems to be a clear solution to the problem.

My folks were staying over so my dad – who's a dab hand with a kitchen knife – filleted the monster and I cooked it following this recipe.

It was sensational. Like the best sea bass I've ever eaten – and plenty of meat on it to feed four people (it was 1kg in weight).

Now, I just need to find someone with a zander problem!

Last week I tried perch from the same fishmonger. I forgot to descale it, overcooked it and it was like eating cotton wool clad in chain mail. A second opinion required.

Fergus Collins

Editor of BBC Countryfile Magazine