Hampstead Heath walk: discover meadows, woodland and deep pools in London’s green lung

Looking for a rural idyll in the heart of the city? Head to Hampstead Heath where a necklace of pools mingles with woodlands, meadows and dramatic views over London

Published: November 29, 2023 at 9:02 am

Hampstead Heath is London’s green lung, a 760-acre sprawl of meadows, woodland and deep pools.

In the 18th century, the Heath became a popular escape for city dwellers in need of fresh air, and it’s still a peaceful haven for Londoners today – and so vast that you might feel like you’re in a rural idyll even in the heart of the city, and find yourself with a sweep of green space all to yourself.

The Heath’s crowning glory are its three bathing pools – one for women, one for men and one mixed – and this walk starts and ends by the first two, known as the Highgate Ponds, and also passes the mixed pool along the way.

This iconic parkland has so many trails criss-crossing it that you can make your walk as short or as long as you like, but this three-mile circular is a great introduction to the delights of the Heath. 

More London walks

Take an aerial tour of Hampstead Heath/Credit: Demetrios

Hampstead Heath walk

2.9 miles / 4.7km | 2 hours | easy | 73m ascent

1. Start

This circular stroll starts and ends at the Highgate Ponds, which are easy to reach by public transport. You’re still in London’s Zone 2 here, but as you listen to the chirp of birdsong and the splash of unseen bathers, you’d never know it.

With the ponds on your right, head south, following the necklace of pools and crossing to the left between the Bird Sanctuary Pond and the Model Boating pond on your way down to Parliament Hill.

Senior man sitting on park bench looking at London city skyline from Hampstead Heath
London city-scape seen from Hampstead Heath/Credit: Getty

2. Parliament Hill

Pause here to take in one of the most iconic views in London from the 98 metre-high lookout. This hill is where the Big Smoke comes to picnic in the summer and to toboggan on snowy days.

From the peak of the Hill continue west to reach the Hampstead Ponds and the park’s other bathing pool, the Mixed Pond.

Hampstead Heath bench
High summer at Hampstead Heath/Credit: Getty

3. East Heath

Turning north, cross through the cool green woodland of the East Heath, passing the Boundary Stones

4. Kenwood House

Continue to the top of the park to Kenwood House, once a stately home and now an English Heritage site that’s free to look around, and which houses a wonderful art collection including works by Vermeer, Rembrandt and Hepworth.

From Kenwood, head south again to find the Highgate Pools for a wild swim.

Kenwood Ladies’ pond is for women only and is open 365 days a year. Dip in a deep pool where you might share the water with a moorhen or even spot the flash of a kingfisher if you’re lucky. Nearly 100 years after it first opened to the public, this is still the sole women-only outdoor swimming spot in the country. 

Hampstead Heath ponds
End your walk with a dip in one of Hampstead Heath's ponds/Credit: Getty

Or walk five minutes south towards Parliament Hill again to the Highgate Men’s Bathing pond, which is male-only and dates back to 1901. During the First and Second World Wars, the pond was used by the army as a training ground for waterborne exercises – now it’s a peaceful tree-lined spot with a diving board. Entry to either pool costs £4.50 for adults, and they’re open year-round. 

Portrait of a moorhen swimming in water
Look for moorhens and other waterbirds on the ponds/Credit: Getty

Hampstead Heath map

Hampstead Heath walking route and map

Hampstead Heath map

Useful information

Starting point

The ponds are a short walk from two tube stations - Gospel Oak on the Overground Line and Kentish Town on the Northern Line. The 214 bus route also goes close to the Pond.

The Heath has four car parks with disabled parking available. 

Terrain

Expect mixed terrain, including tarmac paths suitable for wheelchairs and pushchairs and woodland and heathland trails which can be steep and muddy. 

Map

OS 173

Eat/drink

This walk passes Parliament Hill Café, where you can grab a warm cuppa mid-hike. The Heath is also edged by cosy pubs, perfect for a post-walk pint – The Spaniard’s Inn, built in 1585 as a tollgate, is just off this route. 

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