Our astronomical adventure starts on an unlucky note. The autumnal sunshine from earlier has been swept away by a persistent drizzle rolling across the valleys and hilltops of the Elan Valley. I’m feeling tired and drained, weighed down by weeks of long workdays and the constant hum of a busy family life.
Yet, undeterred by the grey skies, we follow the infectious enthusiasm of Dafydd Wyn Morgan, owner of the local astrotourism company Serydda. With head torches cutting through the mist, our small group climbs towards a rocky outcrop high above Craig Goch Reservoir, our purpose clear: to experience star-bathing.
Reaching the summit, we pause to admire a poignant art installation honouring Alyn Wallace, the renowned Welsh astrophotographer who passed away in 2024. Then, it’s our time to bathe.
We spread out thick Welsh woollen blankets, switch off our lights and lie down, gazing upwards. As our eyes adjust to the dark, the swirling veil of clouds begins to clear like theatre curtains before a show, and as if on cue, the heavens come alive.
I first notice the Milky Way arched in luminous brilliance, then thousands of stars sparkling against the rich, velvety blackness. The sheer vastness of it all takes my breath away, and the fatigue that has weighed so heavily on me lifts almost instantly.
In that moment, with the gentle breeze, the darkness of night, and the stars above, I feel a sense of clarity, awe, and rejuvenation so humbling and exhilarating that I almost laugh out loud.
Connecting with nature
Considered more intimate than simple stargazing, star-bathing is the art of immersing yourself completely in the night sky. Its origins are relatively recent, emerging as astrotourism and wellness practices grow in popularity.
Much like forest bathing, which emerged in Japan in the 1980s and emphasises the restorative benefits of time spent among trees, the goal of star-bathing is simple: to quiet the mind, reconnect with nature and find awe among the stars.
Dacher Keltner, professor of psychology at the University of California, Berkeley, has studied the impact that nature-inspired awe can have on wellbeing. In his book, Awe: The New Science of Everyday Wonder and How It Can Transform Your Life, he explains how brief moments of awe, such as gazing at the stars, can help us better handle daily stress, gain perspective, increase positive feelings about life, decrease loneliness and even spark creativity. When you feel awe around vast trees or while looking at a night sky, he writes, your self-concerns seem smaller and your stresses less significant.
It seems this is just the tonic many of us are craving. A recent travel survey by Booking.com found that visits to dark sky sites are on the rise, with 62% of UK travellers planning trips to experience star-filled skies, many citing relaxation and mindfulness as their motivation.
Our guide Dafydd celebrates this growing interest, reflecting that there is a freedom to the night sky and that the darkness brings a unique quality supporting wellbeing, sleep and relaxation.
The local town of Rhayader is known as the outdoor capital of Wales and traditionally, the focus has been on daytime adventures. People once thought only of what they could do during the day, Dafydd smiles, but now night experiences are an option too. Rather than heading indoors at dusk and closing the curtains, visitors are stepping outside to discover the Elan Valley in darkness. After all, he adds with a grin, night is the best time of day.
Vital measures
Before our nighttime adventure, I explore the valley by daylight. Set in the heart of the Cumbrian Mountains, the dramatic landscape is a picture-perfect portrait of rural mid-Wales, where rugged hilltops cradle deep, winding valleys and vast reservoirs stretch like glassy mirrors.
Between 1893 and 1904, a network of dams, including Caban Coch Dam, Carreg Ddu Dam and Pen y Garreg Dam, were built to supply Birmingham with clean water, reshaping the wild terrain and creating picturesque lakes that have since become synonymous with the region.
By night, however, the landscape transforms into pure darkness. In 2015, DarkSky International officially designated the Elan Valley as an International Dark Sky Park in recognition of its exceptional star visibility, joining a select group of UK areas where the night sky is protected from light pollution.
This involves carefully managing and minimising artificial light sources, from street lamps to building lights. Such measures are vital, as decades of urban expansion across the UK have significantly diminished the clarity of our night skies. Artificial light often spills upwards or sideways, creating a glow that washes out fainter stars and contaminates natural darkness.
It is believed that more than 85% of the UK population have never seen the Milky Way, largely because of light pollution. Even in rural landscapes, the glow from nearby towns or busy transport routes can intrude.
Dafydd expresses concern about this growing threat, noting that even in the Elan Valley, expansion to the west and north-east endangers the quality of darkness. Light pollution may be the easiest type of pollution to fix, he says, but protections such as International Dark Sky Park recognition and strong community awareness are essential to preserve it.
Compared with my rural home near Bristol, the purity of darkness during our star-bathing session astonishes me. Dafydd encourages us to glance down at our hands and feet. Even with the stars shining above, I’m struck by the absolute blackness around me, as if my body has disappeared. Surrounded by the night sky and hearing only the distant hoots of tawny owls, I feel fully immersed in the natural world.
Ecological balance
In the UK, International Dark Sky Parks are important not only for astronomy but also for conservation. The designation provides crucial protection for nocturnal wildlife, including moths, bats, hedgehogs and migrating birds. Research shows that artificial light can seriously disrupt natural rhythms and life cycles, sometimes with catastrophic consequences. Within these protected areas, habitats are better preserved, allowing the night environment to support natural behaviours and ecological balance.
The UK is now home to 14 Dark Sky Parks and Reserves spanning Scotland, Wales, England and Northern Ireland, all experiencing a boom in astrotourism similar to the Elan Valley. These parks, Dafydd says, benefit our minds, our wildlife and the local economy — a true win-win.
Visitors can enjoy Britain’s International Dark Sky Parks in many ways. Kerena Pugh, manager of Lôn Lodges, has run a luxury lodge and glamping site near the Elan Valley for 18 years and has noticed a shift towards astro-inspired activities.
In recent years, guests from around the world have come to experience the night skies through star-bathing, stargazing, dark-sky photography and even astro-cycling, bringing a significant boost to local tourism.
Lôn Lodges is now part of the Cosmic Cymru Collective, a group of businesses offering astronomical experiences, with star-bathing the newest addition and set to become a major trend for 2026 as people seek remedies for the pressures of modern life.
Though expert guidance can help, Dafydd insists it isn’t essential. All you need for star-bathing is to venture into countryside with minimal light pollution, lay out a good Welsh blanket, lie down, relax, look up and breathe in the stars.
It takes 10 to 15 minutes for your eyes to adjust, so avoid looking at a phone or other light source. As for Wales’s reputation for rain, he remains unfazed: ignore the forecast, he says — you never know what you might see. Even clouds can create magic, and a sudden break can reveal unexpected wonders.
That night, many wonders reveal themselves to our small group. As we scan the infinite sky and bathe in the colours of the Milky Way, we witness Orion with his shining belt, the constellation Gemini and its twin stars Castor and Pollux, my own birth sign, as well as Ursa Major — known to me as the Big Dipper or saucepan — the Pleiades star cluster and the planets Saturn and Jupiter.
Dafydd speaks of them like old friends as he guides our eyes across the sky, reminding us that the stars are constantly changing and that each night brings a different performance and a different feeling.
Lying there in the darkness of the Elan Valley, I feel calm, wonder, joy and peace. The vibrancy of the stars feels like a gift from nature, and in future moments of stress I know I will return in my mind to that serene hilltop to soak in the magic of the night sky.
With 2026 set to bring spectacular astronomical events — from a lunar eclipse and a potential peak of the aurora borealis to multiple meteor showers and nightly shooting stars — there has never been a better time to immerse yourself in the darkness. And with some of the world’s most spectacular dark skies right here in the UK, there is no better place to experience star-bathing.
Key astronomical dates for the calendar in 2026
Lunar eclipse, 3 March
During a lunar eclipse, the moon passes entirely through Earth’s umbra (the central, darkest part of the shadow), often turning a reddish-orange, called a ‘blood moon’.
Lyrid meteor shower, April
The Lyrid meteor shower, peaking around April 22–23, can produce 10–20 meteors per hour. It’s known for bright, fast, occasionally green-tinted streaks.
Perseids meteor shower, August
The Perseids meteor shower peaks around 12–13 August, promising up to 100 meteors per hour in dark-sky areas, offering one of the year’s best stargazing experiences.
Potential aurora borealis peak, Winter
The aurora borealis, caused by solar wind interacting with Earth’s magnetic field, is set to peak in 2026, offering a display across Scotland and northern UK.
Dark-sky destinations: Our pick of the best dark-sky spots in the UK
Elan Valley Dark Sky Park, Wales
Voted the ninth best place in the world to experience the stars – based on light pollution, elevation, popularity and scenery – the Elan Valley is perfect for star-seekers and bathers. elanvalley.org.uk
Galloway Forest Park, Scotland
The UK’s first Dark Sky Park, designated in 2009, Galloway is still one of the UK’s darkest places. forestryandland.gov.scot
Om Dark Sky Park and Observatory, Northern Ireland
Located in Davagh Forest in County Tyrone, OM is one of Northern Ireland’s darkest, most awe-inspiring night skies with many opportunities for enjoying the stars. omdarksky.com
Northumberland, England
Together, Northumberland National Park and Kielder Water & Forest Park form Europe’s largest protected Dark Sky area. The Kielder Observatory offers a wide range of events. kielderobservatory.org
South Downs National Park, England
Stretching from Winchester to Eastbourne, the South Downs National Park has the darkest skies in much of England, despite its proximity to London. Its annual Dark Skies Festival (12–22 February) has family-friendly events, talks and night walks. southdowns.gov.uk
Top image: The waters of Caban Coch – the first dam to be built in the Elan Valley scheme – glow below the Milky Way (Credit: Dafydd Wyn Morgan)
