Sheltered by the islands of the Orkney archipelago, the broad natural harbour of Scarpa Flow has long been a haven for ships riding out the North Atlantic weather. Viking vessels once anchored here and centuries later, the same protected waters became one of Britain’s most important naval bases during the world wars.
The story that most strongly defines Scapa Flow took place in June 1919, when the interned German High Seas Fleet lay at anchor here following the end of the First World War (WWI). Rather than allow their ships to be divided among the Allied powers, German crews opened sea valves and scuttled (deliberately sank) their own vessels. In the space of a few hours, more than 50 warships slipped beneath the surface.
Most were later salvaged and cut up for scrap during a series of recovery operations in the 1920s and 30s. But several of the fleet's giants remain on the seabed, making Scapa Flow one of the most historically rich shipwreck dive sites you can find.
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One of the largest and most formidable remaining wrecks of the fleet is the SMS Markgraf. One of four König class battleships to fight in the German Navy during WWI, this dreadnought was launched in 1913, and reportedly stretched roughly 175m from bow to stern (other reports have her at 146m). Armed with five twin gun turrets and designed to carry a crew of 1,136 sailors, she represented the cutting edge of naval engineering in the years leading up to the war. Like many ships of her class, she saw action in the North Sea before being interned at Scapa Flow after Germany’s defeat.
Today, Markgraf rests almost completely upturned on the seabed of Gutter Sound at around 45 metres deep. For divers braving the frigid Atlantic depths, the first impression is likely to be one of scale. The ship’s massive twin rudders and propeller shafts are still visible, pointing skyward where the keel should be. Despite more than a century underwater, the Markgraf remains remarkably intact as she sits too deep for mass salvaging.
Over the years, the wreck has built a reputation as the "jewel in the Scarpa Flow crown". Scapa Flow continues to draw wreck divers from across the world, with local operators running expeditions throughout the season. While several of the German wrecks lie within recreational diving limits, Markgraf sits deeper and demands careful planning, specialised equipment, and considerable experience. Those who make the descent, however, are rewarded with an encounter that few underwater sites can match.
Top image: View of the cruiser "S.M.S Markgraf"- around 1910 (Photo by Ullstein Bild via Getty Images)
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