There are thousands of incredible surfing beaches scattered across the world. Unfortunately, many of those beaches could be at risk to climate change, suffering major changes to their seabeds, shorelines and overall characteristics.
More than three-quarters of famous waves currently in the world surfing reserves (WSR) were at high risk due to changing tide levels, hardened shorelines and shifting sands, according to a new paper. The WSR is a collection of beaches recognised for their outstanding surfing waves and environmental, cultural and economic value to the surfing community.
The researchers used a climate change assessment tool designed to analyse surf breaks, looking at 57 different beaches across 8 countries. Using this tool, they analysed sea-level rise, shoreline resilience, seafloor composition, sediment transport, swell corridors and adaptation planning.
The report found that 89% of the beaches were at risk of a failing shoreline resilience. Shorelines naturally need to move and change, adjusting to changing sea levels and wave conditions.
The report analysed how much development and hard structures have been put in that could stop this. That includes roads, buildings, cliffs or seawalls preventing this movement, making the beach narrower or more constricted.
Equally 79% of beaches were seen as sensitive to sea-level rise. Changes to sea levels can alter how and when waves hit a beach, making it harder for surfers to predict waves before they arrive. It can also ruin a once-great-surfing-beach, removing its large waves altogether.
Finally, the report found that 75% of the beaches were at risk of changes to seafloor composition. Sediment and sand can be moved which changes how waves break. Due to changes in weather conditions, acts of coastal engineering and changes to underwater contours, these beaches can see noticeable change here.
Amongst the beaches listed in the report as at risk was Crodye Beach in North Devon. It was highlighted for its powerful waves. Croyde was seen as one of the surf beaches most at risk due to climate change.
This doesn’t just challenge surfers. Many surfing beaches around the world bring in huge amounts of tourism and industry.
“Surfing breaks are a vital resource, supporting recreation, tourism, and livelihoods oon coastlines worldwide,” the report states.
“By enabling the pursuit of surfing, surf breaks are a coastal destination for surfers and their pursuit of surfing drives local economic growth.”
While every surfing beach is different and requires a different approach to this problem, the report highlights the importance of keeping beaches natural. The more man-made input, the more challenges the beaches face.
