Little Baddow and River Chelmer, Essex

Escape London to explore the countryside along a pretty willow-fringed waterway

Published: October 4th, 2013 at 10:30 am


The Chelmer and Blackwater Navigation is a delightful, little-known waterway. The canal/river begins at Chelmsford and runs for 14 miles to the tidal estuary at Heybridge Basin and is used by pleasure craft, fishermen, cyclists, walkers and canoeists. 

The canal was used for transporting coal, corn and timber until the 1970s. Every parish had its own waterside wharf. The coastal trading ships unloaded at Maldon and horse-drawn barges transported the goods inland. Little Baddow was the halfway stop over point in the Chelmer and Blackwater’s heyday. Bargemen would sleep in the bothy and the horses in the stables.

This walk from Little Baddow gives a glimpse of the area’s past – and its unspoilt present.

Finding the canal
From the centre of Little Baddow, take Spring Elms Lane east. Soon bear left on a drive opposite Mill Lane until you reach a house. Bear left and follow the footpath through woodland. Continue along the edge of a field until you need to navigate through Tofts Farm.

Keep ahead over Tofts Chase and descend on the footpath to the navigation. Bear left. The navigation was opened during June 1793 after an Act of Parliament allowed a navigable waterway to operate between Chelmsford and Colliers Reach.

Ghosts of industry
Follow the path along the river until you reach Papermill Lock, which has been developed as a leisure centre with a tearoom. Pleasure boat hire also operates from here. The canal centre opened in 2002. It’s not too hard to imagine how busy these building were when the river was in its industrial prime.

Cricket bat willows
Continue along the next section of riverside footpath. The canal is lined with cricket bat willows and is very peaceful. Pass a reservoir on the opposite side of the river and continue until you reach a footbridge just before Church Road, where the riverside footpath swaps banks. Richard Coates was the resident engineer, constructing 12 locks that allow the canal to rise 23m (77ft). 

Part river, part canal the Chelmer and Blackwater is still operated by its original company of proprietors.

The canal’s demise
Bear left uphill through the field to reach St Mary the Virgin church, with early Norman features, and Little Baddow Hall Farm. Take a track opposite to skirt around the edge of the farm and continue ahead on a footpath through woodland. Soon bear left to reach Chapel Lane. Turn right and then left on another footpath which passes Belle Vue Farm. At a bend, keep ahead, passing buildings and bear round to the right to a lane adjacent to a school. Go left to return to Little Baddow.

Ironically, the canal was crucial in the building of the Great Eastern Railway, which led to the canal’s own demise. The last diesel lighter loaded timber in 1972.

Image: © Copyright Trevor Harris and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

Useful Information

Come off the A12 at J19 and take the B1137 towards Hatfield Peverel. Take a turning after Boreham and follow the lane
past Papermill Lock into Little Baddow. Nearest train station is Hatfield Peverel and buses stop at Boreham.

Papermill Lock
North Hill, Little Baddow, Chelmsford CM3 4BS
01245 225520

Papermill Lock Tea Rooms
North Hill, Little Baddow, Chelmsford CM3 4BS
01245 225520
Perfect for a late lunch or a cream tea. Dogs are welcome inside, too. (Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays in December and January).

The Barn B&B
Pilgrims, Holybread Lane, Little Baddow, Chelmsford CM3 4BP
01245 223733


OS Explorer 176
Grid reference: TL 781 068



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