Perched on a clifftop above sweeping sandy beaches, the Victorian town of Cromer – with its thriving pier and early 20th-century Pavilion Theatre – is a fine example of a classic seaside resort.
Spend the day playing on the beach with the kids or striding out along the coast with the dogs, and the evening enjoying a traditional end-of-the-pier show, said to be the only one of its kind in Europe.
Ocean farmers: vintage tractors are used to get fishing boats in and out of the sea
Town of little change
Cromer became a seaside resort in the Victorian era when holidaymakers travelled to the coast in search of sea breezes and those broad sandy beaches. Today, little has changed. There are alleyways and side streets to explore, packed with traditional shops, restaurants, cosy pubs, cafes, ice cream parlours and fish and chip shops. But the real taste of Cromer comes from its crabs. Watch as vintage tractors and crabbing boats are hauled up on the beach, while the rest of the vessels are out at sea tending to their pots.
Looking over all this is Cromer Church, the tallest tower in Norfolk. It’s a worthy attraction if the weather turns, along with the Henry Blogg lifeboat museum.
Full steam ahead
There is a lovely linear walk from Kelling Heath near Weybourne to Cromer. Stagecoach operates the Coasthopper, an excellent bus service that runs between Cromer and Weybourne on the A149. A more atmospheric option is to hop on the North Norfolk Railway’s Poppy Line at Sheringham, looking out to sea as the steam train chugs slowly on to Weybourne.
1. Lazing lizards
Alight the train at Weybourne station and follow a footpath west, staying parallel with the railway. You will soon arrive on to Kelling Heath.
Hop aboard the Poppy Line to Weybourne
In August, these bright yellow bushes, along with clumps of purple bell heather, are a visual feast. For those with keen eyes, you may be lucky enough to spot a number of Britain’s native reptiles – such as slow worms, common lizards and adders – basking in the sun.
In August, heather and gorse bloom brightly on Kelling Heath
2. Sand under foot
The footpath stays close to the railway before arriving at a level crossing. Look out for steam trains as you step over the tracks, and then follow a sandy path that runs on to cross Holgate Hill road. Continue north, dipping into a sunken lane embowered with trees and hedgerows. Passing the Pheasant Hotel, the lane emerges on to the A149.
Whether it’s a plate of Cromer crab cakes, a hearty fish pie or a platter of artisan cheese, this reasonably priced Norfolk coast bar and restaurant is the perfect spot for a relaxing meal
3. The sound of waves
Back at the A149, head west and then take the winding track – Meadow Lane – north towards the coast. At The Quag junction, turn right on another track to meet the shore at Kelling Hard. You’ll hear the sea before you reach it, the waves pulling at the shingle beach. From here, as you join the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path, route finding becomes straightforward. Turn right, heading east as you stick faithfully to the shore.
4. A mammoth tea stop
Pass a lifeboat station to arrive into Sheringham. This is a good place to break for lunch – there are plenty of tea rooms and The Mo Sheringham Museum is worth a look. The coastal path continues in an easterly direction from Sheringham, rising to a panoramic viewpoint known as the Beeston Bump. A little further on, you’ll arrive at Old Butts on the outskirts of West Runton.
5. Cromer in Sight
Head inland at Wood Hill and then rejoin the clifftop for an exhilarating finale into Cromer.
6. Vintage Feast
An ice cream is probably in order. Find Ice Cromer on New Street and sample one of their many flavours before taking a stroll along the pier. The beach will be dotted with old vintage tractors and small crabbing boats, the perfect cue to seek out John Lee’s Crab Stall on New Stree.
For more information about Cromer, visit the website
Images: Alamy, Getty, Shuttershock