Celeriac and potato dauphinoise

Celeriac is my number-one root. It has a flavour somewhere between sweet earth and hazelnuts, it comforts sedately, and it reassures entirely. It can have as toothsome a crunch as it can be soft and coating, and then it can be everything in between.

Celeriac, part of the celery family, can be found growing wild throughout the Mediterranean basin and northern Europe but the plants we cook and eat will nearly always be cultivated. It’s the swollen root that tastes so good, and for me it is one of the most versatile winter vegetables. Here, layers of thinly sliced celeriac are baked with potatoes, double cream and a whisper of salty anchovy; I find the fish bring a bring a real depth to the dish, but don’t worry, they are optional. Chilli flakes give this dish warmth.