There are mushrooms for most seasons, but in early autumn the likes of chanterelles, girolles and trompettes de la mort come to the fore – plucked from the woods and brought to market by the box-load. Look, for example, at the ultra-seasonal mushrooms display at Fitz Fine Foods and Tartufaia.
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This simple celebration of them works equally well for breakfast, brunch, lunch or supper. Flavours like tarragon and mustard are a well-established match and shouldn’t overwhelm the ’shrooms, given how prized and pricey they can be. On which note, the recipe includes chestnut mushrooms to add bulk and an alternative texture. But feel free to go all out with only wild mushrooms; using only ceps (also known as porcini or penny bun), for example, would make a particularly decadent but rewarding toast topper.
- wild mushrooms 150–200g, a mix of chanterelles, girolles, pieds de mouton and/or trompettes de la mort
- water 2 tablespoons
- full-fat creme fraiche 100g
- fresh sourdough bread 2 thick slices
- cooking oil 2 tablespoons
- Chestnut mushrooms 250g, quartered
- butter 40g
- large garlic clove 1, finely sliced
- leaves picked from 6 sprigs of tarragon roughly chopped
- Wholegrain mustard 2 teaspoons
- juice of ¼ lemon
- extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
Recipe from The Borough Market Cookbook by Ed Smith, published by Hodder & Stoughton, £25. Image by Issy Croker.
Read more recipes by Borough Market chefs, writers and cooks at boroughmarket.org.uk/recipes